网站原创An icon is a very recognizable and longstanding success story. No actor bees an icon after one movie, and no product is considered an icon if it hasn’t passed the test of time. Despite how difficult it is to achieve icon status, icons are all around us.
There are icons in vehicle design, like the Ford Mustang, the Chevy Corvette, the Aston Martin DB, the Ducati 996, the BMW 1200GS, the HarleyDidson Road King and more. Icons in Chinese entertainment include Bruce Lee, Michelle Yeoh and Gong Li.
And, there are icons in the watch industry； watches we recognize immediately based on that certain something, a design that is timeless yet still modern, evergreen but still engaging and captivating.
Icon是一个时代印记,一种文化标志,它的故事必定是广为流传、久经不衰的.仅一部电影无法让一个演员代表某个时代；不经历岁月的洗礼,某个产品也不会得到传承.Icon就是一种标志,成就不易,却无处不在.
在汽车王国里,这类icon可以是福特野马（Ford Mustang）、雪佛兰科尔维特（Chevrolet Corvette）、阿斯顿马丁 DB（Aston Martin DB）、
杜卡迪 996（Ducati 996）、宝马1200GS（BMW 1200GS）、哈雷戴维森“路王”系列（Harley-Didson Road King）；而在华人演艺圈,李小龙、杨紫琼、巩俐无疑是不同时代的icon.
在腕表世界里icon是如何被定义的呢?它似乎是某种设计精神,亘古不变却又系动着时代的脉络,经久不息却依然充满着灵动与趣味.如果能从一款腕表身上感受到此般律动之美,那就找到了传承经典的符号.
What makes a watch iconic?
It’s not easy to pin down what makes a watch iconic. A bination of great design and uniqueness, along with a dollop of great timing.
And is it luck, happenstance or planning? Can a watch manufacturer set out to create an icon, or does a pany just stumble into good fortune when a watch bees an icon? There is no right answer. Some watches, like the Cartier Tank and Rolex Daytona, were icons from the day they were introduced. Other watches, like the Hamilton Ventura, the Patek Philippe Calatra and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, became icons because of their tremendous success and their extraordinary longevity in the brand’s collection.
“I think every ‘serious’ watch panies is trying to create an icon, but whether it happens is another story,” says Patrik Hoffmann, president, Ulysse Nardin. It is debatable whether watch panies set out to make an iconic watch. The best icons are perfect manifestations of a brand’s DNA and he features that are interesting to both the brand and their target audiences, and they he enduring appeal. If the nature of the design stands the test of time it can naturally bee iconic, a recognizable style of the brand.
成就经典,谋事在人? The icons we he chosen here he never lost their way. Cartier, with its Tank, has succesully morphed the original into a host of designs. The Royal Oak from Audemars has had a number of variations and limited editions and is still going strong. Even Hamilton has updated the Ventura, while still keeping the original in its catalog （and that original is still a best seller）.
Here is Fortune Character’s list of the top iconic watches of all time. What watches do you consider to be icons?
“标志”诚可贵,“流传”价更高
Icon也有它的生命周期,甚至会在有限的岁月里险遇重重暗礁：它会被多次提上更新版本的议程,或者被别的款式所替代.看看杜卡迪就知道了,996的一代传奇到了999身上便沦为众矢之的；而福特的野马也有许多版本,但这些版本与最初的精髓相去甚远.
更新一款标志性的经典腕表就好比艺术家对自己的杰作伤筋动骨：既要添砖加瓦,又不能坏了原貌,谈何容易?卡地亚这些年却成功地更新了数款经典之作,这里面包括“坦克”（Tank）、“帕莎”（Pasha）、“桑托斯”（Santos）.卡地亚手表市场开发总监Thierry Lamouroux 说：“想给一款经典注入时代的因子,就先得领悟它成功的故事,尊重它的独特个性.我们就拿Tank Anglaise来说,它的设计继承了路易斯卡地亚本人早在1917年绘制的思路：平行的表壳切面,罗马数字,宝剑形蓝钢指针（注：更精确地说,1917年的Tank采用宝玑式指针,即Breguet hands.这种指针又称为月亮针Moon hands,其特色是近针尖处有个孔）.但在2012年的新款中,我们将表冠（发条钮）埋入表壳内,整体外观更为雄浑典雅.新的演绎反而更深得原型紧凑、硬朗、简洁的设计精髓,让该系列的传奇得以延续.”
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伯爵最近也成功更新了一款经典系列：Piaget Polo.伯爵总裁Philippe LeopoldMetzger 说：“1979年推出的Piaget Polo系列是一场革命,它对高端奢华提出了全新的看法,鼓励人们在休闲的生活中配金戴钻.设计风格必须彰显这一效果,而它的成功也应证了这点.现在的Piaget Polo已经从黄金进化到钛金时代,但仍然清晰保持着原有的风格脉络.”
我们在这里谈到的几款标志性腕表都得到了很好的传承.卡地亚的Tank系列版本虽多,但都能成功演绎那份最初的典雅.Royal Oak不仅普通款众多,还有限量款的设计,目前势头正旺.而汉米尔顿即使更新了Ventura,却仍保留了原始款的销售,它至今依然卖得最好.
你是否也想推荐自己心目中的标志性腕表?我们在这里等待你的加入,一起畅谈腕表世界的icon文化等
New Icons
Watch panies are constantly working to produce their next icons. Here are three watches that he the chance to really bee iconic, lasting, classic designs.
The A. Lange & S?hne Lange 1 classic, clean and unique.
The Corum Admiral’s Cup a staple in Corum’s collection, with many different variations, but all of them immediately recognizable as Admira’s Cup.
The F.P. Journe Souveraine Chronomètre Optimum its distinctive design is like nothing else on the market.
谁将成为下一代传奇?
手表制造商永远不会满足于当下的成功,“酝酿未来的经典”一直都是他们勇往直前的动力.我们认为三款系列有望成为下一代传奇：
L a n g e 1―― 朗格（A . L a n g e & S?h n e）在1994年重返表坛后首度提出的四款时计之一.凭借其不对称和排列分明的显示布局,以及特有的大日历显示,此表在过去十多年来赢得无数奖项.它的经典、简洁与独特充分诠释了以朗格为首的萨克森制表工艺.
Admiral’sCup――昆仑（Corum）著名的“海军上将”.该系列于1960年面世,专为海洋爱好者打造独具个性的运动时计,已享誉半个世纪. Chronomètre Optimum――Souveraine系列中的全新杰作,是F.P.Journe致力追求精确性、革新意念和卓越表现的最新结晶.它融汇了时间历史所累积下来的丰富知识,应用当表的尖端技术,参考伟大制表师的作品,设计独树一帜.
Fortune Character New Watch 1： The Hermès Atmos
Recently, I was invited to Paris by Hermès, and I assumed that they were unveiling a new watch prior to the BaselWorld fair. When I walked into the exhibition area, I was surprised to discover very modern crystal spheres set up throughout the hall. Turns out the introduction was not a new watch, but rather a new Hermès interpretation of the famous JaegerLeCoultre Atmos clock.
Invented in 1928, the Atmos is the closest thing to a perpetual motion timepiece ever conceived. Wound by the expansion and contraction of a gas-filled capsule the capsule expands when the temperature rises and contracts when it falls -- the Atmos is delivered to the client with an astonishing one year power reserve. According to the watchmakers in Jaeger’s Atmos department, a difference of one degree is enough to wind the clock for 48 hours.
Hermès is no stranger to working with Jaeger-LeCoultre, hing collaborated on watches from the 1930s to the 1970s. “We deeply respect their high craftanship and their values,” says Luc Perramond, president, Hermès. “It is a great acplishment to renew our historical ties with such a unique masterpiece like the Atmos Hermès table clock. Both Houses are sharing the importance of high craftanship and respect the history which makes this collaboration as an obvious opportunity. The Atmos Hermès clock has given us the chance to work on an exceptional design in order to host the unique Atmos movement from JaegerLeCoultre. This has been an opportunity for all of us to express our creativity and high level of craftanship.”
The very cool design is a crystal globe that surrounds the Atmos movement, using the double overlay technique （coating layers of crystal over each other, giving a three-dimensional effect）. The result is a fascinatingly futuristic design which uses circles of clear glass against white enamel, allowing a view into the Atmos movement. The globe is painstakingly manufactured by the glasakers from Les Cristalleries de Saint-Louis, founded in 1586, a pany owned by Hermès.
Only 176 pieces of this stunning clock are being made, exclusively through authorized Hermès retailers. Retail price： 30,000 chf.
本期新品推荐（一）爱马仕空气钟
编者最近应邀出席了爱马仕位于巴黎的展览会.虽然对他们在巴塞尔前夕发布新款的举动早有心理准备,但当我走进展厅时却倍感意外.整个大厅布满了现代感十足的球形水晶座钟,这让我立刻领悟到爱马仕的用意所在：这不是一场新表发布会,而是爱马仕对积家（Jaeger-LeCoultre）著名空气钟的重新演绎. 诞生于1928年的空气钟是积家研制的恒动时计,其机械构造不同凡响：无需电池或电源,巧妙的设计以空气为动力运转；在一个密封罩内充满混合气体,气体随环境温度的细微变化产生膨胀或收缩；密封罩通过手风琴风箱般的反复膨胀收缩,不断为座钟上链.当写家拿到这款产品时,它内部储有维持一年的动能；而据积家所称,仅一度的温差就能让它运转48小时.
说来爱马仕与积家也算旧相识,两家的合作曾从20世纪30年代持续至70年代.爱马仕总裁Luc Perramond 说：“我们深深仰慕积家的工艺水准与价值观念.将空气钟的设计融合到爱马仕的杰作中,是我们诠释经典的一个壮举.爱马仕和积家都尊重工艺与传统,我们的合作绝非偶然.通过这一设计,我们可以将空气钟卓越的设计理念传承下来,展示我们的创新与匠心.”
水晶球体将空气围住,双面水晶涂层赋予它立体的视觉感受.透明效果与乳白光芒交替,无形的空气化为有形,它将人、环境与永恒的时间联系起来.这款水晶玻璃罩出于Les Cristalleries de Saint-Louis的巧匠之手,这是一家成立于1586年的老牌水晶制造商,现归爱马仕旗下.
爱马仕、积家、Les Cristalleries de SaintLouis三个品牌发挥各自超凡的想象与技艺,联手共同制作了176座爱马仕空气钟,在爱马仕的专卖店出售,售价3万瑞郎（约19.5万人民币）.
Fortune Character New Watch 2： The Mondaine Stop2Go
One of the coolest watches I he ever owned was the original Mondaine Stop-ToGo, a watch that perfectly mimicked the Swiss Railway clocks all the train station clocks in Switzerland are synchronized each minute, all the second hands across the country stopping for a long, twosecond beat at the 12 o’clock position, then continuing on. It’s a very cool feature, both in the clocks and on that watch.
Unfortunately, Mondaine discontinued that watch due to the engineering challenges of making the second hand stop every minute. Now, Mondaine has solved the problems and is reintroducing the timepiece, now christened Stop2Go, and I can’t wait to get my hands on this watch.
The dial uses the famous Swiss Railway Clock design （Mondaine is the Official Watch of the Swiss Railways）, which is cool, iconic and traditional yet modern at the same time. Keep an eye out for this watch. At around $700, it’s a real treat. .mondaine.ch
(二)瑞士国铁Stop2Go
编者拥有一块自认为是最酷的腕表：Mondaine Stop-To-Go的首款版.瑞士火车一向以安全准时而著称,所有火车站都挂着标志性的大钟,其红色圆秒针经典设计已授权给钟表制造商Mondaine（国铁）,生产各式手表.除了其简约的设计,这些时钟都有一个共同的特点,那就是确保瑞士火车的准时性：秒针每分钟暂停两秒,在此期间,瑞士铁路网的每一个时钟都是同步的.而Stop2Go便是一款模拟瑞士火车站大钟的系列手表.
但由于让秒针每分钟暂停两秒的技术难度极大,国铁曾一度将该系列停产.幸好现在难题已被攻克,Stop2Go重获新生.它搭载了一款全新机芯与瑞士铁路时间同步,这得益于Mondaine独特的技术构思：由瑞士制造的Mondaine calibre 58-02机芯使用两个引擎,一个驱动秒针,另一个驱使分针跳动（并因此转动时针）,以便模拟瑞士火车站时钟的运转.秒针在第58秒令表盘发生变化,在12点的位置暂停两秒,然后继续移动而分针已经跳过.这款手表售价约700美元,但极富趣味,同时也是对瑞士钟表文化的一个致意.
What Makes Them Tick： Emmanuel Chriqui on Watches and Design
Emmanuelle Chriqui is best known for her role as Sloane on HBO’s succesul series “Entourage.” Born in Montreal, she got her big break at the tender age of 10 in a McDonald’s mercial.
In addition to “Entourage,” she has appearing in movies, TV shows, theater, video games and voice overs, and she is now an international ambassador for Baume & Mercier.